Stem of Isabena
“To cross the porch and to enter the interior it is a simple act, but inside it arises all the sobriety to you from the Romanesque one””
We came near to the localities of Laguarres and Lascuarre, that we will leave the right. In this point, if some traveller wanted to return, it is possible to take here the highway that takes until Benabarre, crossing the towns of Castilgaleu and Luzás to us. Continuing the original route we went into “by a quiet and empty region… of isolated small villages of great dimensions… Today the tractor replaces manpower farmer, but I cannot avoid the solitude of the contour”. José Antonio in the Colomina, a great large house with a small back-to-back Romance hermitage to its Eastern part pauses. A good place to replenish forces before continuing overcoming waters of the Isábena towards the north, accompanied by the views by the Mountain range by Serraduy and the omnipresent Turbón.
To six kilometers, shortly after leaving to the right the bridge Romanesque of Stem, is the deflection that raises until the promontory in to us which the locality of Stem of Isábena is raised, where José Antonio encourages to us “to listen to the stopped air of the time in that impressive monument that is the town and the SEO”. We park in a zone qualified to the entrance and from this point we ascend smoothly towards the urban center, taking a walk by the narrow streets of the old capital of the County of the Ribagorza.
Stem was episcopal see of the s. X to the XII, when after the conquest of Lérida the bishopric is transferred to this city. It is in year 956 when the SEO rises. This first temple was rehabilitated by bishop San Ramón after the devastation that underwent the Ribagorza at the hands of Abd-al-Malik. Its stone coffin, excellent sample of funeral Romance sculpture in Aragon, rests in the central crypt. The temple shares the invocation of San Vicente Mártir and San Valero, from Zaragoza santo whose rest also rest here. José Antonio counts who “to cross the porch and to enter the interior is a simple act, but inside all the sobriety arises to you from the Romanesque one”. The porch is a later addition of the s. XVIII, like the tower and the choir, but not its cover of the s. XIII, a great means arc point with simple decoration of archivolts and door of two leaves with Mudejar carpentry. In the North side is the cloister: “To enter him, by the unusual thing, it is exciting… It is the richest cloister of the world in funeral inscriptions of the s. XII, XIII and XIV”. In spite of I dispossess that it underwent the SEO Museum at the end of years 70, the SEO still keeps important samples from personal properties.
Behind the church is the palace of the Prior, of the s. XVI, or the rest of the castle of Stem, or “Fat Tower”. We descend until the car by its streets full of big rambling houses, that dismiss to us before returning to our route and maintaining course towards the Puebla de Roda.
Church ex- SEO of Stem of Isábena
The oldest SEO of Aragon. Built between the s. XI and XII with later reforms of the s. XVIII. It consists of three parallel ships, whose apses are visible in the outside. The lateral ships cover with vault with edge and the power station with vault with quarter with sphere. Under the priest that precedes open it three crypts, being the most showy power station since its configuration forced to lift the altar. The crypt of the North side, call Room of the Treasure, contains paintings murals of the s. XIII.
Cloister of Stem of Isábena
Cloister Romanesque of first half of the s. XII formed by four galleries put a roof on in slope and opened by means of means arcs point on monolithic columns that lean in an in excess socle. In the soffits of the arcs funeral inscriptions are distinguished, that form the greater set of Europe. A rain tank in center of the patio was in charge to gather the rainwater. The cloister gives to access to the chapel of San Agustín, decorated with painting mural of the s. XII, and to the SEO dependencies of Sala Capitular and the Refectory, today turned into restaurant of the Hospedería.